To Washington D.C.

New York - train - Trenton (New Jersey), Philadelphia (Pennsylvania), Wilmington (Delaware), Newark, Lums Pond SP, Chesapeake (Maryland), Havre de Grace, White Marsh, Baltimore, Laurel, Cherry Hill, Washington D.C.

Out of the City
I did not want to battle through the hopeless suburbs of an overgrown city. I found a train to Trenton in New Jersey from Penn Station, a station already known to me. The train company was different from the familiar Long Island Trains. This is why I had already checked the rules on the previous day. The situation for bikes was similar to Long Island Trains: they welcomed bikes and did not even charge extra for them. Bikes were only not recommended during rush hours. I also checked where the elevators were located, which would be necessary to use with a fully loaded bike.

At 7.30 a.m. I tried to extend my stay, as the previous day's musical had got me excited about going to see one more performance. But it was a Friday, and the hostel of at least 150 rooms was fully booked. They suggested that I wait until 11 a.m. in case someone canceled, but that did not interest me. I washed my clothes, cooked ham and eggs in the kitchen that no-one else was using and, shortly before 10 a.m., I was already enjoying the wild, but fair, battlefield of New York traffic.

I bought a ticket for Seniors to Trenton at the machine ($7). The train was to leave in 30 minutes (it left every half hour on the hour during the day). The platform number was displayed only 10 minutes before departure. So I wanted to get ready and went down in the elevator to TL. It stopped at 3 levels: SL – street level, ML – middle level and TL – train level. Since there were several rail companies using the station, for someone unfamiliar with this, it was quite a problem to find information about the specific lines and their departures. Finally I managed to do so: my train was leaving in 8 minutes from Platform 2. Although I was already on TL, I still had to climb up some steep steps. The elevator to the individual platforms was on ML, I had no time for that. I could not wait for another train. Instead, I removed all the saddlebags, carried them one by one up to the platform, hung them back on the bike and still had 1 minute left. The carriages were different from those of the Long Island Trains. I had to stand at the door and move the bike, depending on the side of the platform. The journey took 90 minutes and I only had a standing ticket.

In Trenton, I stepped out into a heavy downpour, which seemed to be of an eternal nature, so there was no point in waiting under a shelter. My speed sensor had stopped working, which seemed to be the norm that year. It usually started to function after about 1 km. This did not happen. Maybe the electric engine had influenced it. In the heavy rain, I had to enter the search for the sensor again. Luckily, it worked, so I did not have to unscrew anything or reset the settings. This success helped me to accept the rain and I happily pedaled on, assisted by a strong wind from behind.

Pennsylvania
Shortly after Trenton, I crossed the River Delaware over the bridge to enter Pennsylvania. Everything was going fine until my arrival on the outskirts of Philadelphia. The outskirts were ravaged by an above-ground line, which was several kilometers long, covering the skyline and creating an uneasy atmosphere. The noise of passing trains on it intensified this feeling. Of course, people who are well off do not live in such places. Odd beings strolled around the streets - many were stoned or drugged. I won't forget a 20-year-old girl who shuffled along, supporting herself with a stick and every now and then falling down. The devastating effect of drugs in her case was evident.

[Philadelphia] Philadelphia outskirts suppressed by overhead road

Camping out in the Wilds
The GPS led me to a campsite on the city outskirts. The road was not busy, but it was in the worst possible area. It was getting dark and I had just enough time to reach the campground, to discover that there wasn't one. The area was built-up, nobody knew anything about any campground. It was getting dark and I had to decide whether to search for a motel or just to camp out somewhere in the wilds. I figured that camping would be the best, it would be safest to pitch my tent somewhere behind the bushes in the surrounding semi-park, semi-wilderness area, to avoid the risk of being hit by a car. I waited till there was absolutely nobody in sight, pushed the bike up a hill into the thick bush and looked to see if anyone could observe me. I pitched my tent in the drizzle, from memory, only when it was totally dark. I did not want to give away my presence by using a light. The nearby river would be a place for washing, but I wanted to avoid being noticed, so I used the technique learned from Alain: I took out a pack of moisturizing tissues, similar to the ones used for babies, and wiped my skin with them. Then I lay down in the tent and at least partly recovered the sleep deficit from NY by a 10-hour sleep.

I woke at 5 a.m. as planned. I can really count on my internal clock. Packed everything up in the dark, hung the saddle-bags on the bike and, just before leaving, used the flashlight to check that I had not left anything behind. There was no point in cycling in the dark, so I pushed the bike all the way to the main road. A Burger King appeared around the bend, where I was the only customer. I ordered an unhealthy breakfast, exceptional bucket of coffee and waited for the sunrise. I cycled to the center of Philadelphia, hoping to find an Information Center for some maps and campground information. I found it, but due to the Federal shutdown, it was closed. So I found a campsite with the GPS and hoped that it really was there. Helped by a favorable wind from behind, I soon entered the State of Delaware.

[Philadelphia] Philadelphia Center

[Philadelphia] Love is seen all over Philadelphia

[Philadelphia] Bridge over Delaware River

[Philadelphia] Entry to one of university buildings

In Newark, I came across a cycle store. I received an outdated – yet, for me, very updated – cycle map. They had never heard of the campsite I was trying to reach, instead they sent me to the Lums Pond State Park, where the campground was definitely open. This campground turned out to be very pleasant, located in a soft, grassy field among huge trees. It rained both at night and during the day, but a tree protected me from being soaked while cooking my breakfast.

[Lums Pond State Park] First a rainbow and then a short downpour

Hail a Taxi!
I unremittingly aimed for Baltimore and thus towards Washington. It was easy, from the navigational point of view. Road 40 had a marked cycle lane leading along the emergency lane almost all the way to Baltimore. The emergency lane was about two meters wide, the wind was from behind, and I did not mind the heavy traffic any longer, as I had got used to it. Disillusionment came unexpectedly, just before the bridge between Perryville and Havre de Grace, which cyclists were not permitted to use, even though the GPS had announced this route as being for cyclists.

I cycled to Perryville, where I was informed that it was impossible to cycle across. There used to be a footpath. but it had been demolished during the bridge reconstruction. There was an occasional ferry on weekdays, but this was a Sunday. I cycled to the train station, planning to cross the river by train. No chance, no trains stopped at that station on Sundays and the next day was a bank holiday – Columbus Day – so there would be no train either. If there had been a gas station close to the bridge, I would have hitched a ride from a truck driver. I had no choice but to cycle to the Police station at the bridge. They confirmed that it was impossible to cycle around to avoid the bridge. There was another bridge on the Interstate, but no bikes were allowed over it as well. And there was another bridge on Highway 1 about 30 km away, which was near the narrow embankment of an electric power plant, so no bikes were allowed there either. I said that I would hitchhike instead, but they told me that was also against the law. They offered to call a taxi for me. I had no choice, so crossing the 2-km long bridge cost me $10. No campground in sight, not even in Gunpowder Falls State Park. I saw a roadside motel, so I stopped over there.

[Chesapeake] Bridge over Chesapeake Delaware Canal, luckily I did not need to cross it

[White Marsh] Williamsburg Inn, motel where I slept for a change from camping

I could not find any suitable accommodation in Washington on the Internet. I had already searched for it online in NY. I found a hostel with private rooms about 5 km from the center, but it had terrible reviews. Then I found a campsite 25 km from Washington and decided that either I would find something at the last moment, or I would commute to the city from that campground, from where there was public transport – a bus connecting to the subway.

The campground was spacious, well equipped, exceptionally clean and, thanks to its location, also very expensive. A tent pitch cost $47, but, as usual, I received a 10% discount without even asking for it. They even had a pool, sauna, jacuzzi, store, restaurant, big social room open 24/7, good WiFi connection, a lake with a fountain, plenty of squirrels and wild geese. One crucial disadvantage for me was that the tent area was literally only a few meters from the Interstate. Although there was a forest in between, the noise was terribly loud and it took me an hour to fall asleep. I had to make earplugs from paper tissues, or I would not have slept at all.

[Baltimore] City center

Finding accommodation was a bit complicated. I could not find anything at a desirable distance from the center. I even tried hotels and discovered a special offer at Channel Inn for $103 per night. The hotel was situated only 1.5 km from the National Mall, in other words, very close to the center, near the Potomac River. I paid over the Internet and it was reserved.

Warned by my Intuition
Without any reason, I felt the need to check on the Internet for cycle stores in Washington. I found two next to each other in Georgetown. I did not need anything, but I had the time, so I decided to check them out. I could check in at the hotel only after 2 p.m. anyway. About 1 km before the store, the shifter cable broke. Of course, I was carrying a spare, but I did not want to change it next to the road. I fixed the gear to the middle gear. They had no time for me in the first store, they only had one mechanic who was overloaded with work.

[Washington D.C.] Repairman wanted to be photographed with my newly repaired bike

In the second store, I was warmly welcomed and they immediately started to repair the bike. It was a hell of a job, as the end of the cable had got stuck in the gearbox and could not be released. They had to open it all up and take it apart, dig out the last piece of the cable – and then it was a piece of cake. I could not have repaired that next to the road. The bike had been in outdoor conditions for the past three months, in a lot of rain. It was so rusted that I could hardly unscrew some of the screws. I asked for the cranks, which had a 3 mm play due to the worn bearings, to be replaced as well. We had a great chat and they even took a photo of me for their company's Facebook.

[Washington D.C.] Map of city bike stands

[Washington D.C.] Common in Washington – no bike in sight

[Washington D.C.] City bikes in action

[Washington D.C.] Main roads are very busy

Washington D.C.
The center of the USA capital city is an elongated village within a park, with a row of huge buildings lining it, such as the Lincoln Memorial and the Capitol. It is the ideal cycling venue, with the center interwoven by cycle lanes. It is even possible to cycle on the wide footpaths. Drivers are used to cyclists. On the fully loaded bike, I cycled through the National Mall – a 3-km long park. On one bank of the Potomac River, the Lincoln Memorial can be seen and, on the other side, the Capitol building. The superb Smithsonian Museums are situated between the Capitol and the obelisk which is the Washington Monument. But, due to the financial collapse, all Federal administered sights and museums were closed. Sometimes it felt a bit unnecessary – why could the public not see the Lincoln Memorial? Could anyone steal such a huge statue?

Access to sights was only permitted in situations connected to the First Amendment of the American Constitution which governs the freedom of belief, the press, expression, the right to gather and the right of people to request from State organs a redress of grievances. For example, the transparent statement "Servít je vůl” would certainly have gained me access to the monuments. But I did not go to such extremes. ("Servít je vůl" – literally: "Servít is an ox" – was seen in Czech student graffiti in the 60s, intended as a satirical joke.)

[Washington D.C.] Lincoln Memorial

The Korean War Veterans Memorial is also situated in the park. Realistically expressed, statues of tired, frightened soldiers in raincoats trudging though the wet jungle. A very depressing impression. The Vietnam Veterans Memorial is formally neutral – a wall displaying the names of all the Americans killed during the war. Only after a while, does one realize just how many names there in fact are. What an incredibly high number of soldiers, what life stories lie behind all those names. The World War II Memorial, on the other hand, compared to the previous ones, is not as touching. The Great Powers have to acquire their great position by force, which results in sacrifice. Locals understand it well there. For this reason, the aforementioned sights, together with the Arlington National Cemetery, are very popular.

[Washington D.C.] Korean War Veterans' Memorial was very depressing

[Washington D.C.] Vietnam Veterans' Memorial

[Washington D.C.] Names of fallen soldiers are engraved on wall of Vietnam Veterans' Memorial

[Washington D.C.] Washington Monument at dusk

[Washington D.C.] Washington Monument reflected in pool

A bicycle is the ideal vehicle on which to explore Washington. I enjoyed a comfortable whole day's sightseeing of all the important historical sights. I started at the enormous Capital building, where a number of media crew were waiting to see whether there would be a solution to the budget crisis. The Republicans were opposing the increase in the height of the cap of the budget deficit and the Democrats, who were in power, refused to reduce the expenses which had increased due to the preparation for ObamaCare health reform. And the demonstrators were demanding a solution to the problem and a return to work.

I checked out Ford's Theater, where the assassination of Lincoln took place, and the house opposite the theater, where Lincoln succumbed to his wounds. I checked out the White House. From the South side, it is very far away, over a wide grassy lawn. There were more tourists viewing it from the North. This is also the view seen on the $20 banknote, which many people were using as a funny complement to their souvenir photographs.

[Washington D.C.] U.S. Capitol

[Washington D.C.] Capitol dome

[Washington D.C.] Demonstrators demand quick solution of budget crisis so they can return to work

[Washington D.C.] Store at Union Railway Station

[Washington D.C.] White House

[Washington D.C.] Very common amusement - comparing the White House with the one on 20$ note

[Washington D.C.] White House

The Arlington National Cemetery is situated across the Potomac River, but there were naturally no problems to cross that bridge by bike. Wide footpaths for pedestrians and cyclists. Washington has a high tolerance for cyclists. Just like other cyclists, I weaved in between pedestrians and nobody expressed any annoyance. The cemetery has countless graves and two unique sights, accessible on marked paths. The grave of J.F. Kennedy, where they were reconstructing the eternal flame at his graveside, so it did not appear very stately at the time. The major sight is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, where guards patrol and change every hour. The soldier on guard marched along a 40-meter-long footpath, stopping at the end, did some maneuvers with his popgun, stood for a moment, turned around and, with ceremonious steps, which looked as if he needed to go to the bathroom, marched back to the other end.

[National Cemetery Arlington] Cemetery needs to be quiet and respected

[National Cemetery Arlington] Thousands of graves

[National Cemetery Arlington] Amphitheater at Grave of Unknown Soldier

[National Cemetery Arlington] Guards in front of Grave of Unknown Soldier

[National Cemetery Arlington] Memorial to astronauts killed in 1986 Challenger disaster

I cycled back into Washington, around the famous Watergate complex, which was the cause of President Nixon's resignation, before reaching the harbor. Then I rode through Georgetown and returned to see the rest of the memorials – Roosevelt, Jefferson, M.L. King. All were of course closed, with access to them denied. Some places were guarded by the Police. At the F.D.R, there was no guard, so I could look closely at the unusually modest civilian statue of the President in a wheelchair. This one was not gigantic like the others, but life-size.

[Washington D.C.] Harbor, famous Watergate in background

[Washington D.C.] F.D. Roosevelt statue

[Washington D.C.] Artificial waterfall at F.D. Roosevelt Memorial

I never expected to take such a huge interest in the internal politics of the USA. However, the closed museums, which I had been looking forward to seeing, influenced me a lot. It is sufficient to spend one day in Washington if one cannot see the museums. But I knew there was no chance of me seeing them. Even if it came to the Senate's approval, it would still take time to go through the House of Representatives, it had to be signed by the President and then it would take several days before the museums would reopen. I had no option but to accept this, but I was not too happy.

I Strike Luck Again
I Strike Luck Again In the morning, I opened the website of the Smithsonian Institute and surprisingly there was a new announcement – "Today the Museums will reopen and tomorrow the National Zoo." American efficiency! I did not want to miss anything, so by 9.30 a.m. I headed towards the Air and Space Museum, only 15 minutes from the hotel, where I was one of the first visitors. However, there were no crowds, maybe about 100 people. Before the doors opened, we were welcomed by the Museum Director, who let the media crews and visitors in, among whom I was the first to step inside. There I was immediately caught by the TV crew who asked what I thought about it. I said I was enthusiastic, because I had come here all the way from Canada, cycled 5600 km to find that the Museum was closed. She asked which route I had taken, and how long it had taken, nodding her head appreciatively. Another question was what I thought about the human robot that they were to reveal that day. I said that it would be great, but I was there to see the planes. Finally, they asked me my name and where I was from and I was allowed to enter the dream Museum.

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum - Blériot XII and other great flying machines from beginning of aviation

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum - Lindberg's Spirit of St. Louis behind experimental Bell X-I

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum – bust of Albert Einstein carved in crystal

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum – famous American pilot Amelia Earhart and her Lockheed 5B Vega

Air and Space Museum
The Museum covers a long period, from the beginning of aviation history, through both world wars, the development of civil aviation, up to the current space projects. In addition, it offers a series of educational, often playful programs, such as: "How Things Fly" and the more serious program focusing on the evolution of the Earth and aerial navigation. All this is supplemented by a Planetarium and iMax cinema. There are so many aircraft that it is quite difficult to take any good photographs, because parts of adjacent planes, such as the wings, propellers and tails, also get into the photos. I was especially fascinated by the space technology of the 60s, which peaked with the moon landing in 1969. I always thought space technology was something very hi-tech, but it mainly concerns the accurate engineering of military – durable and resistant – quality. The Museum also houses some of the modules that returned from space, not mere copies. Without a doubt, the most famous item is the Apollo 11 module, in which astronauts returned after the first expedition to the moon. I was surprised how small it was. Three astronauts had to squeeze into it with some difficulty. One week in outer space, under not very great hygienic conditions and in the constant proximity of others must have been tough. Intensified by insecurity about the outcome of their mission and whether they would survive or not.

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum – pilotless Boeing Phantom

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum – Apollo detail

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum – Skylab space station with Hubble Telescope behind

[Washington D.C.] Air and Space Museum – Apollo 11, in which astronauts returned from the Moon

There are also other exhibits worth seeing. Right at the entrance is a rock from the moon which one can even touch, an opportunity one does not get every day. In the Naval Aviation section, I was surprised to see such massive slots and wing flaps on the planes, which must have considerably increased lift and allowed for short take-off and landing. A film showing take-offs from an aircraft carrier, projected on to the windows of the Captain's bridge with audio of radio communications was also fascinating, creating a realistic impression. A similar effect was created of the Airbus A320. On the windows, images of take-offs and landings at the local Reagan Airport were projected, including control tower communications as well as communication between pilots – this was once again very impressive. It was also possible to experience flying a plane in a flight simulator, at a small fee – but there was a long line for this.

National Gallery of Art
This is located just across the street from the Air and Space Museum. I was already quite exhausted after several hours spent in the aforementioned Museum, but this one was of a different type. I went to see the Impressionists and suddenly I regained all my energy. The Gallery is vast, with an exhaustive number of paintings, excellent choice and quality. Luckily it is organized in the 'American' order. A map displays the main artists, such as Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Vermeer, Picasso, H. Bosch, da Vinci, etc. You are led through thematically arranged expositions. It is quite difficult to leave the place, one does not have the opportunity to see such masters every day. One would need three half-days in this Gallery just to be able to orientate oneself in these collections. I was pleased to see a Czech, or rather Czechoslovakian, artist: a 1912 painting by František Kupka commanded a respected position in the Gallery among the works of Picasso. The painting was donated to the Gallery by the Mládek family in 1984.

[Washington D.C.] National Gallery of Art – painting by Leonardo da Vinci

[Washington D.C.] National Gallery of Art – majestic premises

[Washington D.C.] National Gallery of Art – walk-though to East building

[Washington D.C.] National Gallery of Art – modern art in East building

[Washington D.C.] National Gallery of Art - František Kupka – Localization of Graphic Motives II, donated to Museum by Jan and Meda Mládkovi in 1984

I extended my stay by one more day in order to visit the other museums. The Museum of African Art was not as interesting as the Asian collections in the Freer and Sackler Gallery. I crossed the park to the Museum of Natural History. The lower level is dedicated to fauna of all the continents except Europe. The children were crazy about the stuffed and attractively displayed animals. I personally enjoyed seeing the fossils and the dinosaur section, where among the reconstructed skeletons, were also real bones discovered mainly in the USA. They are truly massive bones, and only by seeing them can one realize what huge creatures these were.

[Washington D.C.] Hirshhorn Museum – hall in basement

[Washington D.C.] National Gallery of Art – statue garden

The award-winning natural photographs were excellent. I read with interest next to each photo what type of camera, lens, aperture, exposure time, film sensitivity had been used and whether the camera was hand-held or on a tripod. In the latter case, what type of tripod and tripod head. I especially liked the photograph of dead trees taken in Sossusvlei, Namibia, where I had traveled the previous year. Incredible colors, apparently taken at sunrise.

[Washington D.C.] National Museum of Natural History – African Elephant dominates the hall

[Washington D.C.] National Museum of Natural History - Africa

On the next floor, the famous Hope Diamond is exhibited. There is also a pavilion with living butterflies. A very vivid and illuminating exposition of the human genome and, around the corner, Egyptian mummies. Some of these had been taken out of their tombs, so one could see the mummified bodies. Also a mummified buffalo head was on display. Such rarities can not be seen just anywhere. Speaking of heads, in the basement was a small Moai from Easter Island and, in front of the Museum, a huge Toltec head from Mexico.

[Washington D.C.] National Museum of Natural History – crystal grid

[Washington D.C.] National Museum of Natural History – DNA part

A few steps away, I entered the National Museum of American History which housed an enormous exposition dedicated to wars, starting from the American Revolution, to the Civil War and Afghanistan War. In the section dedicated to the Vietnam War, I finally understood how to repair a bicycle. Surprisingly, I found the section interesting which exhibited the wardrobes of the First Ladies – their clothes revealed their proportions and tastes. I peeped into the Food section, to see how American eating habits had changed over time. It was obvious that the new ways are not always better than the old ones. I needed to take a walk and absorb this overload of impressions. I went to see the Lincoln Statue, returning to spend the rest of the open hours in the Air Museum. I even saw an iMax movie about sports plane racing in Reno. That concluded my museum visits. However, I had not managed to see them all. There are a few that are outside the National Mall. Just a note: Museum entrance is free, while some activities must be paid for: iMax, Planetarium, Butterfly Pavilion, aircraft simulators. The prices are low, typically $8 per adult

[Washington D.C.] Museum of American History – Vietnam War part I finally taught me how to repair my bike

I was so exhausted by all the sightseeing that I had to take the bike and ride around for an hour that evening. It was dark, but I was on the cycle paths, so felt safe. It helped me to refresh my mind and sort out my thoughts and impressions of the two intensive museum days.